We wanted to create Derby shoes that are classic, casual, and suitable for daily wear. The first step was to find a shoemaker with deep expertise in dress shoes. After a long search, we ended up making a spontaneous call to a small shoe factory located in Fermo, Marche, Italy, and visited them in late September 2019. The factory was founded in 1977 by Mauro’s father and uncle, and has now been passed to the second generation. Their main markets have traditionally been Germany and Italy. Today, the factory is led by brothers Mauro and Roberto, but their father and uncle still work alongside them, making shoes together.
There is a clear difference between factory operators who merely have knowledge and those who possess true craftsmanship. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many factories and distributors have shut down, and the footwear industry has become one of the declining sectors in Italy. However, this factory has maintained a solid presence in the domestic market. Rather than focusing on expanding the size of their operations, they prioritize sustainably producing designs they love and products they can handle with care. Perhaps this is the reason they were able to survive even during the COVID crisis.
We wanted to challenge the widespread belief that products made in Italy are unquestionably good. The prestige of "Made in Italy" has been declining in recent years. We would cautiously suggest that this is due to products that are less competitive in terms of manufacturing costs, some broken promises, and a lack of transparency in the manufacturing process. In the end, who makes the product matters more. What makes our product truly good is that Mauro and Roberto understand grds’ vision, work to bridge any differences in opinion, and are committed to creating our shoes with transparency.
There is also a clear difference in quality when comparing Italian materials and shoemaking equipment to those available domestically. In Italy, products are made more efficiently through a simplified and more systematic production network. Each factory is specialized in a particular stage of the manufacturing process, which allows for greater expertise and higher-quality results. Because different factories are each focused on specific processes, the overall production is more professional and refined. Unfortunately, when trying to replicate this in Korea, there are several limitations – not only is the proper machinery and equipment lacking, but the materials also need to be imported, which drives up the cost. It is not that products are inherently better just because they are made in Italy. Rather, it is the combination of people with the right mindset and the various factors that enable the creation of high-quality products that truly make a difference.
As blucher 08 is the first pair of Derby shoes introduced by grds, we made a deliberate effort to work with skilled and rare Italian craftsmen, visiting them in person to ensure high-quality and good design. Also, we aim to be transparent with our product by boldly eliminating unnecessary costs for consumers as well as cutting inflated manufacturing expenses and middlemen margins.
