Most of gradus’s suede products are made using materials from Conceria Opera, an Italian tannery. In 2022, when representatives from Conceria Opera visited Korea, I had the opportunity to examine various leather samples. Among them, one suede immediately caught my eye. What captivated me was the striking contrast in texture between the front and back panels—each featuring distinct surfaces with opposing characteristics.

Both the front and back panels of this suede are crafted from premium European cowhide, dyed using the drum-dyeing method. This technique involves tumbling the leather in large rotating drums with dye, ensuring deep, even coloration. As a result, the leather develops a rich, natural tone while enhancing durability. Unlike surface-dyed leather, drum-dyed leather maintains its color over time and is highly resistant to scratches and abrasions.

The front suede is coated with wax and hot-pressed with an iron, creating a compressed, polished surface. Over time, the nap shifts in response to movement, allowing wearers to shape its texture naturally. As it develops a patina, the front suede can take on different appearances depending on how it's worn—scuffing against surfaces, exposure to rain, or even intentional distressing with sandpaper can create unique effects.

The back suede undergoes a different process. It is first tanned with a blend of oil and cream, then drum-dyed for a second layer of rich coloration. Afterward, it is wax-finished, soaked in water, and wrung out, creating its signature wrinkled effect. To refine the heel panel, we worked with the factory to apply a special solution and brushing technique that smooths down the nap, making it appear as if two different suede patterns have been seamlessly joined—when in reality, it is a single continuous material. By incorporating these contrasting suede textures into one product, we have created a boot that remains true to classic craftsmanship while offering a distinctive, contemporary aesthetic.